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#ELECTRIC RADIANT FLOOR HEATING HOW TO#

If your slab is below-grade, it is probably 50-60 degrees.

Drop a pool of hot glue onto the slab under where the wire will go.

Hobby models that use 1/8″ sticks will go through glue sticks too quickly).

Plug in and heat up an electric glue gun. You’ll want to use a “professional glue gun” that can take 1/2″ glue sticks.

#ELECTRIC RADIANT FLOOR HEATING HOW TO#

(All radiant heating flooring vendors will provide you a plan for how to lay out the radiant wire if you first give them a drawing of the room).

Lay out the mat according to your plan for the room.

Steps for Hot Gluing Radiant Heated Flooring Mats Hot gluing the mats allows thinset or SLM used to cover the mats to be poured at a mere 1/8″ – 1/4″ thick. Most radiant heating wires are approximately 1/16″ – 3/32″ thick. Gluing down the wires ensures they don’t move.

Crossed wires create an unsafe condition and will likely cause the mats to overheat when they are operated. For instance, all electric radiant heating systems require that the heating wires never cross.

The wire doesn’t “come loose” while spreading thinset or SLM, which might move the wire in a way that compromises the installation.

Also, since both SLM and thinset are expensive, the lower profile of the wire ensures a minimal amount of SLM/thinset is required, thus reducing overall cost. This is advantagous because wires that stick up through the initial layer of thinself or self-leveler can be easily cut or knicked, rendering the entire heating mat useless.

The heating wire maintains a very low profile, making it easier to cover with a thin layer of thinset or self-leveling mortar.

A close, secure bond to the slab ensures: When installing electric heating wires on to a slab (or really any substrate), a professional installer (read: DIYer) has a vested interest in keeping the radiant heating wire and any mesh bonded tightly to the slab. of electric radiant heat in the basement of our house to take the cold edge off the concrete slab, which otherwise stays a brisk 55 degrees all year round. However.Using electric radiant floors as a supplemental heating source in a room has become very popular in the last few years. Thereafter, it will cycle between ON and OFF and will only draw electricity during 25% to 33% of the time remaining during the ON period. Moreover, during each ON period, the electric system will only use electricity continuously for the initial period of temperature build-up. The hydronic system will be ON for many months, while the electric system will be ON-&-OFF several times a day according to the ON-OFF settings of each room thermostat.

However, the real comparison needs to consider the different ways these two systems are used. Operating costs: The cost of electricity in America varies between 3 cents/kWh up to 18 cents per kWh, therefore, the cost of generating 1,000 BTU with a hydronic system may sometimes be lower than the cost of generating 1,000 BTU with an electric system.With electric systems an underground fault detector can find the exact location of the break and after breaking just one or two tiles it is easier to splice the electric cable and replace the few tiles removed. If a hydronic installation is faulty, it is difficult to find a leak and the system is difficult to repair. Electric heating systems have no moving parts and require no maintenance. Maintenance and repairs: Hydronic systems need to circulate water continuously and they use valves and manifolds, which are prone to sedimentation, mechanical problems and maintenance issues.In very large jobs (complete home in new construction), the hydronic radiant floor heating systems will often be less expensive to install. Cost of Installation: In remodeling jobs or in select rooms of a new construction hydronic systems will cost more to install.They are controlled by a timer and a thermostat and in most cases, the homeowners will preset ON-OFF cycles to provide heat only WHEN he/she needs it and WHERE he/she needs it (selecting rooms and heating from your feet up). They will heat the floor in 30 to 60 minutes under tile. Energy Saving: The electric heating mats are placed above the sub-floor, just under the flooring material.Therefore, they are left ON for many months and consume energy during a longer period of time. This is so deep into the floor that it usually takes 4 to 7 hours to heat up when they are first turned ON. Time to heat up: Hydronic systems are placed 1.5" or 2" into a cement slab.Thin electric systems will elevate the floor by only 1/8". The hydronic floor heating system elevates the floor by a couple of inches, which can be a problem in many remodeling jobs. One difference is the floor elevation involved.What are the Advantages of Electric over Hydronic Floor Heating?